Tech and Gear
Weighed the frames I got my hands on. Will add frames as I come across them.
Also check out my canopy survey.
| 65mm Frames for 6x15mm Motors | ||
 Kingkong Tiny 6 |
 Furibee F36 |
 Eachine E010/JJRC H36 |
| 65mm Frames for 7x16mm Motors | ||
 X-Racer X-1 |
 Boldclash BWhoop |
 Boldclash BWhoop Pro |
 Eachine E011 |
 Makerfire Armor 65 |
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| 65mm Frames for 0603/0703 Motors | ||
 Boldclash B06-65 |
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*Note that these should be considered relative weights since I’m not sure if my scale is properly calibrated.
Here are common Tiny Whoop battery connectors you will encounter.
JST PH 2.0
2mm pin distance; Also known as MCPX, JST-2.0; Found in the Furibee F36, Eachine E010/11, JJRC H36.
Molex Battery 2.0
2mm pin distance; Also known as Micro Losi, Walkera; Found on many toy quads and batteries.
Molex Battery 1.25
1.25mm pin distance; Also known as Molex Picoblade, E-flite, JST-1.25 (wrong term since JST-GH is the real 1.25 JST connector); Found on Blade Inductrix and KingKong Tiny 6/7.
Upgraded my F36 transmitter sticks. The extensions were a little loose but nothing that a dab of glue couldn’t fix. The resulting longer travel translates your thumb input to smaller angles so the quad is not as twitchy and abrupt as before. Plus looks more like a proper transmitter now!
The Furibee F36 transmitter with its internal antenna doesn’t have much range. This is fine with line of sight (LOS) flying but with first-person view (FPV) flying, you’d probably want a bit more range. We can drill a hole through the casing and thread the antenna through and out of it which can increase range. But why stop there? Let’s install an external antenna.
I wanted to keep the canopy for my first Tiny Whoop build but the VTX03 was a bit too big so I had to settle for a more technical look. And then I burnt the VTX out in a crash. So I got a VTX01 and did a rebuild.